Hidden Belgrade (13): Knez Mihailova’s unlucky merchants

Ever since the Roman times, the road that is now  Knez Mihailova street used to be the main commercial area of Belgrade. Starting from the old castrum (whose walls are buried below the new Rajićeva shopping mall and the Belgrade Public Library), the street, which was paved with stone and had sewerage, went past all the key Roman institutions , such as the forum located … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (13): Knez Mihailova’s unlucky merchants

Hidden Belgrade (10): Grand Hotels of Belgrade

Given its place on the major East-West trade routes, hotels and inns played an important role in the development of Belgrade. Although none of the great hans/caravan serais from the Ottoman era remain in the city, there are several major hotels from 19th and 20th centuries which still remain open. These hotels not only offered the first glimpse of Serbia to weary travellers, but they … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (10): Grand Hotels of Belgrade

Hidden Belgrade (8): The mysterious green heart of Belgrade

The beauty of the Great War Island is hiding in plain sight. Although bang in the middle of the confluence of the Sava into the Danube, its thick forest, inaccessible for most of the year, make it seem like an enchanted kingdom, choked by the grey concrete of New Belgrade and watched over by the Belgrade fortress. This uninhabited heart-shaped refuge for birds survived due … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (8): The mysterious green heart of Belgrade

Hidden Belgrade (5): Museum Macura

Due to the low public and private investment in art in Serbia in the past three decades, there have been only a few remarkable additions to the cultural map of Belgrade, and quite a few remarkable subtractions, like the National Museum and Museum of Contemporary art. Probably the most exciting new(ish) spot in greater Belgrade’s museum scene is a temple to 20th century avant-garde perched … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (5): Museum Macura

Hidden Belgrade (1): Works of Dragutin Inkiostri Medenjak

Like any city that has been around for about two millennia, Belgrade is filled with fantastic stories of people and places that have made it what it is . Unfortunately, due to its turbulent past,  frequent destructions and mass migrations, many of these stories are precariously close to perishing. In the time when even the most beautiful old house can fall prey to a sledgehammer … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (1): Works of Dragutin Inkiostri Medenjak

Belgrade in 7 songs

7 songs that capture the capital’s undoubtable, but even changing swag in the past 50 years 1963: Beograde – Đorđe Marjanović Đorđe Marjanović was the first post-war pop sensation. A trained pharmacist, he was the first Yugoslav star to gyrate around the stage and have a cult following by Đokisti, as his fans were called. Đokisti even started a minor riot in Belgrade after a … Continue reading Belgrade in 7 songs

Best of Belgrade / Summer 2016: Belgrade, the world

In the shallowest parts of my soul, which I am slightly ashamed of, a thing that I thought I might miss a lot when I moved back to Belgrade from London was the variety of cuisines and their high quality (despite the prejudice about food in Britain). I am pleasantly surprised that the variety in Belgrade is increasing by year, especially with our very belated … Continue reading Best of Belgrade / Summer 2016: Belgrade, the world

The Nutshell Guide to Belgrade (2014): Top foods

Serbian food is getting a lot of good press lately, and it is quite something: no good night out ever ends without a pop to a street food stall (pljekavica and burek are the most common), and the people tend to take their food quite seriously (not to mention plentifully). A mix of various influences, from Turkish to German, it tends to be on the  heavy side … Continue reading The Nutshell Guide to Belgrade (2014): Top foods