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Morava Style: Medieval Serbia’s Majestic Swan Song

When I first laid my eyes on Ravanica’s Church of Ascension last spring, it became apparent why medieval Serbia’s first and last autochthonous architectural style inspired so many artists through the centuries, from the graceful architecture of Branko Tanazević to the subtle poetry Vasko Popa. That cold April morning, I could not peel my eyes from the intricate rosettes and writhing mythical animals, which enlivened … Continue reading Morava Style: Medieval Serbia’s Majestic Swan Song

Hidden Belgrade (40): National Assembly’s Grand Interior

Built in 1936, on the spot of the former Batal mosque, and just across the road from the royal place complex, the National Assembly building, was built to impress the power and ambitions of the ill-fated Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The outdated, Belle Epoque grandeur of its exterior was based on a design by Konstantin Jovanović in 1892, (later modified by Jovan and Petar Ilkić in … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (40): National Assembly’s Grand Interior

20 Yugosphere songs from 2010s that you have to hear before 2020

As the last summer of 2010s is slowly coming to an end, I thought that it was a high time for a listicle celebrating songs from countries of ex-Yugoslavia that marked the past decade for me. I don’t want to claim that they are the best songs made in the past decade in the region, nor a fair representation of what is going on on … Continue reading 20 Yugosphere songs from 2010s that you have to hear before 2020

Northern Italian Road Trip: Central Tuscany, a bit of Liguria and Turin

For me, there is no better country to travel around than Italy. It was the first foreign country I visited when I was 3, and the country I most often went back to (without ever living there), and the place that I could spend each holiday exploring. This time around, a friend and I decided to treat ourselves with an 8-day-long road trip around northern … Continue reading Northern Italian Road Trip: Central Tuscany, a bit of Liguria and Turin

The Many Charms of Yugohotels

Hotels and resorts of Socialist Yugoslavia got a lot of press in the past few years (two examples here), especially as every summer more and more foreign tourists are heading to its coasts and cities over the summer. This recent fascination with ‘Yugohotels’ is more than just due to the trendiness of the Eastern Adriatic coast in the past few years, or the hipsterish love … Continue reading The Many Charms of Yugohotels

Best of Belgrade June 2019: Ultimate Belgrade Eating and Drinking Guide

It’s been a while since I’ve done a list of Belgrade’s best spots for eating and drinking. Part of the reason is my laziness, and the other part is that in the past few years, there has been a boom in the offer. While before there were a few new places worth checking out every month, now there is enough to lose track (thankfully insta-fiends … Continue reading Best of Belgrade June 2019: Ultimate Belgrade Eating and Drinking Guide

Faces and Blossoms of Art Nouveau in Serbia

From the curvy floral beauty of the Subotica’s Synagogue to the Morava-style inspired rosettes on Belgrade’s telegraph building, Art Nouveau architecture takes various shapes in present-day Serbia. This diversity was in large part because this sensuous new style, originating in late 1800s France, was used as an artistic expression of national romanticism that gripped Europe those days. Back in early 1900s, north of the Sava … Continue reading Faces and Blossoms of Art Nouveau in Serbia

Northern Macedonia: (Quint)essential Balkan Country

Stunning scenery, beautiful historic sites and friendly faces are what you can find almost anywhere in Northern Macedonia. During both of my recent trips to the country, I was in equal measures surprised by the how wonderful many of its sites are – from the ruins of Marko’s Fortress in the dramatic hills over Prilep to the bustling Bitpazar market in Skopje – and shocked … Continue reading Northern Macedonia: (Quint)essential Balkan Country

Pokretači #52 Daniela Stanković i Jovana Antić – Koozmetik / Beograd

Pokrenut 2015., Koozmetik je sad već poznat po svojim prelepo dizajniranim prirodnim kozmetičkim proizvodima najvišeg kvaliteta, a od skora možete posetiti i njihovu prelepu radnju u Višnjićevoj 2 na Doćolu. Sa Danielom Staković i Jovanom Antić sam pričao o tome kako je izgledalo izgraditi brend u novom polju i o mukama s kojima se susreću perfekcionisti u Srbiji. Beleške View this post on Instagram Jedan … Continue reading Pokretači #52 Daniela Stanković i Jovana Antić – Koozmetik / Beograd

Smellscape of Belgrade

Faintness of wisteria in Krunska. Sweet roses on the Danube run. Endless evenings under the lindens in Palmotićeva. Chlorine and sunscreen at Taš. Damp asphalt and grass at Ušće. Muddiness of the last dip at Ada. Charred paprika skins, hinting ajvar. Crisp smog around Bajloni. Eau de Kafana and wool, tumbling through a December night. Smogless, snowy morning in an empty city. Dusty seats of … Continue reading Smellscape of Belgrade

Interesting Times at the Venice Biennale

Through a set of lucky circumstances and generosity on part of a friend of mine, I found myself at an event which I wanted to visit for a long while: preview of the Venice Art Biennale. It was on my radar ever since I became interested in the fascinating workings of the world of contemporary art and I actively yearned to visit after reading Geoff … Continue reading Interesting Times at the Venice Biennale

Pokretači #51: Svetlana Ceca Đolović – RadioAparat / Beograd

Svetlana Ceca Đolović je jedan od pokretača RadioAparata, online radija koji se od 2016. emituje iz Savamale. Sa Cecom sam pričao o tome kako je njeno dugogodišnje uredničko iskustvo sa Studija B primenila u RadioAparatu, koji su izazovi rada na volonterskom radiju koji želi da se bavi društvenim pitanjiima i, konačno, kako postati bolji voditelj. Beleške: View this post on Instagram Pocinje godisnja SuperMeni lista……….. … Continue reading Pokretači #51: Svetlana Ceca Đolović – RadioAparat / Beograd

Abramović, Žižek and Milanović: Yugoslavia’s First and Last Global Public Intellectuals

For a country that’s been dead for almost thirty years and whose contributions to the world, according to the Western prestige-press range from German Nazism to  Islamophobia in Australia it may be surprising that in the past few years, a number of Yugoslav intellectuals seem to have charmed their Western peers, and to be giving their fair share of insights into the current malaise that … Continue reading Abramović, Žižek and Milanović: Yugoslavia’s First and Last Global Public Intellectuals

Beyond Brutalism: Belgrade’s Magical Pre-WWII Architecture

Although best known for socialist modernism and brutalism, Belgrade’s architecture is (in)famously eclectic due to the various political twists and turns that shaped the city’s identity (as I’ve written here). Although through much of the 19th century, Belgrade’s foreign and foreign-educated architects were trying to find their feet by copying architecture of Serbia’s powerful neighbours, in early 20th century and arrival of art-nouveau, which embraced … Continue reading Beyond Brutalism: Belgrade’s Magical Pre-WWII Architecture

Pokretači #50 Miloš Erić – Sportifico / Beograd

Sportifico je društvena mreža koja okuplja preko 8 hiljada fudbalera i trenera uglavnom sa prostora bivše Jugoslavije. Pohvaljena od strane Entrepreneur magazina kao jedna od 6 najboljih društvenih mreža koje suže posebnim nišama, ona je sjajan spoj Miloševe pasije prema fudbalu kao i njegovog znanja o digitalnom preduzetništvu. Beleške Sportifico ( Apple Store link, Google Play link ) Snimak Media Jam radionice u Impact Hubu (gde smo … Continue reading Pokretači #50 Miloš Erić – Sportifico / Beograd