Zagreb: a Belgrader’s take

Despite being named as the best destination in Europe by travel guide publisher Lonely Planet in 2017, Zagreb was the target of a scathing and, at points, hilarious review in the German weekly news magazine Der Spiegel last July. The review not only claimed that Zagreb is the most boring capital in Europe, but also said that its highway to Croatia’s famed Adriatic coast was the best thing … Continue reading Zagreb: a Belgrader’s take

Tombstone tourism, from Arlington to Zagreb

Cemeteries, along with large parks and markets, always top my list of sights to see in any city I visit. Unlike shops and cafes, which are increasingly the same all over the world, cemeteries remain shielded from changes and give us a glimpse into the private workings of the city. Even in the busiest places, they are quiet and dignified, rarely overrun by tourists. They … Continue reading Tombstone tourism, from Arlington to Zagreb

Hidden Belgrade (19): Doppelgängers

Cities like to show their friendship by sharing the same monuments. New York and Paris share the Statue of Liberty (although the one in Paris is considerably smaller), while copies of Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid are everywhere from Romania to Korea. Belgrade is no exception and there are (at least) four monuments which tie it to other places. Their stories feature old friendships, sunken ships and … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (19): Doppelgängers

Priča o dva “Balkana”

Krajem 1896., Beograd i Zagreb su bili gradići sa oko 60.000 duša sa velikim ambicijama da postanu kulturni centri emancipujućih jugoslovenskih naroda. Te godine, oba grada su imala prve projekcije filmova braće Lumière. U Beogradu to se desilo na Terazijama, u gostionici  Zlatni Krst, 6. juna, manje od šest meseci od prvog javnog prikazivanja filma u Parizu, i prvi put na Balkanu. U Zargebu, malo … Continue reading Priča o dva “Balkana”