Poretači #36 Senka Pajić – Ispeci pa Reci/Beograd

Senka Pajić, dramaturškinja po obrazovanju i veteran advertisinga, je pre skoro dve godine pokrenula jednu od mojih omiljenih Beogradskih poslastičarnica: Ispeci pa Reci. Sa Senkom sam pricao o njenom putu do poslastičarstva, o manje slatkim delovima posla i o tome kako je pokretati posao kao majka malog deteta. Notes: View this post on Instagram Ako ste ozbiljan ljubitelj kafe, probajte naš kuki sa kapućinom. Mi … Continue reading Poretači #36 Senka Pajić – Ispeci pa Reci/Beograd

Belgrade snobs – a guide

“Local Belgradism, we are all snobs here” drawls Serbian rapping sensation Sajsi MC. Born Ivana Rasic in Vracar, Belgrade’s original “posh” neighbourhood, Sajsi often plays with themes of snobbery and class, and has even developed an alter-ego called Tiffany, a nouveau-riche teen obsessed with expensive tacky clothes, unnecessarily dropping English words into her affected Serbian. If you stroll down Vracar’s unofficial main drag, Njegoseva, on … Continue reading Belgrade snobs – a guide

Corporate to Creative in 10 Gruelling Steps: A Realist’s Guide

You are sitting in a grey  office on a gloomy day, tried, and after yet another frustrating day, you are thinking your life is going to waste. You take your phone, and see a person – maybe even a friend – sipping cocktails on a tropical beach and bragging about their freedom, and – more gratingly –  being bale to afford a care-free, happy life … Continue reading Corporate to Creative in 10 Gruelling Steps: A Realist’s Guide

Understanding Marina Abramovic

For a nation that takes immense pride in its famous sons and daughters, the Serbian public’s apparent disinterest in Marina Abramovic’s global success as an artist is an aberration. Despite the fact that Abramovic is by far the most acclaimed living artist from the former Yugoslavia, the average Serb would probably not know her name. She is mostly absent from the Serbian press, there are … Continue reading Understanding Marina Abramovic

Why So Doomed? Serbia’s Depressing Exceptionalism

“So, how is that different compared to any other country?” a Finnish visitor interrupted my wine-fuelled autopilot list of Serbia’s social ills: lack of strategic direction, ever-increasing inequality and cronyism. I paused. Weirdly, my list was not all too different from the headline issues in the Trump US , never mind the complaints you hear in any cab in the ex-Yugoslav states. My instinctual rant … Continue reading Why So Doomed? Serbia’s Depressing Exceptionalism

Hidden Belgrade (21): The rise and fall of the Friendship Park

There are a few testaments of Socialist Yugoslavia’s global ambitions dotted around Belgrade, from the obelisk by Branko’s bridge commemorating the first meeting of the Non-Aligned movement in 1961, to Sava Centar, built to host conferences of OSCE and Non-Aligned Movement in 1977 and 1979, respectively. However, the most striking and poetic memorial to rise and disastrous fall of Yugoslavia’s international clout is the Friendship … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (21): The rise and fall of the Friendship Park

Tombstone tourism, from Arlington to Zagreb

Cemeteries, along with large parks and markets, always top my list of sights to see in any city I visit. Unlike shops and cafes, which are increasingly the same all over the world, cemeteries remain shielded from changes and give us a glimpse into the private workings of the city. Even in the busiest places, they are quiet and dignified, rarely overrun by tourists. They … Continue reading Tombstone tourism, from Arlington to Zagreb