Golubac and Ram: Serbia’s Fantastic Fortresses
Visiting Serbia’s most stunning fortresses. Continue reading Golubac and Ram: Serbia’s Fantastic Fortresses
Tag: Travel
Misunderstanding Japan
Although I had almost no knowledge of its history, culture and language, like many Europeans, I became intrigued by Japan when, as a student, I was exposed to a heightened, almost surreal image of the country. This pastiche of curious places, objects and characters that drew my attention to this peculiar civilisation, did not come from the common vehicles of manga, anime and hentai– but … Continue reading Misunderstanding Japan
Bač: Vojvodina’s Forgotten Treasure Trove
Magnificent castle ruins, 12th Century Catholic monastery and an atmospheric hammam: all in Continue reading Bač: Vojvodina’s Forgotten Treasure Trove
Mokrin House: A Global Village in North Banat
Digital nomads give a village in north-eastern Serbia a chance at a comeback. Continue reading Mokrin House: A Global Village in North Banat
Serbia’s Magical East
Famed and feared for elaborate Vlach death rituals, Serbia’s east is also home to Roman palaces, historical vineyards, medieval monasteries and more. Continue reading Serbia’s Magical East
Hip Markets to Majestic Mosaics: Four Things to Look Forward to in Belgrade in 2019
Due to a culture of unrealistic promises and hectic decision-making, it is often impossible to know for certain when, and even if things will happen in Belgrade. Nevertheless, in order to keep the spirits up during these dark snowy days here are four things, with a reasonably high probability of happing, which I hope will make life in Belgrade a bit more fun this year. … Continue reading Hip Markets to Majestic Mosaics: Four Things to Look Forward to in Belgrade in 2019
Four Places You Need to Visit in Serbia in 2019
In the past few years, tourism has been booming in Serbia thanks to the country’s better connectivity with the rest of the world. According to the Serbian Statistical Office, between January and September almost two million people visited the country, a growth of about 11 per cent compared to the same time period in 2017. While most of those visiting the country stay in its … Continue reading Four Places You Need to Visit in Serbia in 2019
Ultimate Belgrade Shopping Guide
A growing array of style conscious craft-oriented shops, both old and new, can help you tick off the items on your holiday gift list. Continue reading Ultimate Belgrade Shopping Guide
To the Holy Mountain: A Pilgrimage to Hilandar
For anyone who has had any kind of brush with the Serbian education system or the Serbian Orthodox Church, Hilandar is etched in the memory as the place where the glory of medieval Serbia survived almost intact for more than eight centuries. Hilandar was founded in 1198 by Stefan Nemanja, the first ruler of the Serbian medieval Nemanjic dynasty, and his son, Archbishop Sava, who … Continue reading To the Holy Mountain: A Pilgrimage to Hilandar
Ljubljana: More Than Just a Pretty Place
From world-class architecture to tasty food and cafés galore, Ljubljana is much more than just a stepping-stone to the country’s famous lakes. Continue reading Ljubljana: More Than Just a Pretty Place
Hidden Belgrade (35): The Home of Serbian Expansionist Project
On August 10 1889, cannons announced the arrival of the teenage King Aleksandar Obrenovic to an empty plot in Dusanova street. Although cleared for years, the spot at which the young king was standing, held the remains of two empires between which the young Kingdom of Serbia was slowly growing. It used to be “Pirinc-han”: the palace of Eugene of Savoy during the Habsburg rule … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (35): The Home of Serbian Expansionist Project
Hidden Belgrade (34): Rabbi Alkalai, Zemun and Zionism
Although in the past few decades Zemun is best known for its tough guys (read: mafiosi), great lively restaurants a more chilled vibe than old Belgrade, this ancient town has for centuries been a vibrant melting pot of various cultures, drawing merchants and craftspeople to the border of Central Europe and the Orient, which, for centuries lay on the banks of the Danube. Despite many … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (34): Rabbi Alkalai, Zemun and Zionism
How to Bust Post-Holiday Blues in Belgrade
Although I love Summer (and especially late Summer) in Belgrade, coming back from holidays is always a shock, especially if you have to immediately go to the office. All the golden, calm feeling of chilling at the beach, hiking or just doing something different can quickly disappear, to be replaced by the seeping anxiety of returning to the glum daily grind and all the problems you … Continue reading How to Bust Post-Holiday Blues in Belgrade
Best Three Places to Visit If You Are Planning a Staycation in Belgrade
Belgraders are often restless to escape the congested streets of the capital. Thankfully, they need not go far: there are plenty of hidden gems within reach to sate your wanderlust if strapped for time or money to venture further. Grocka’s Archeological Treasures A 40-minute drive east from central Belgrade, spread over hills above the Danube, Grocka has been a popular place for Belgraders to … Continue reading Best Three Places to Visit If You Are Planning a Staycation in Belgrade
Hidden Belgrade (33): Inside ‘Plavi Voz’ – design lover’s dream train
Step into Tito’s luxury train, straight out of Wes Anderson’s wet dream Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (33): Inside ‘Plavi Voz’ – design lover’s dream train
Pokretači #31 Donald Niebyl – Spomenik Database / Illinois, USA
Donald Niebyl founded and manages Spomenik Database, a website dedicated to monumental Yugoslav WWII memorials. Donald not only travelled up and down former Yugoslavia visiting monuments (or ‘spomeniks’ as they are called in local languages), but he also researched and wrote detailed history of many of them, soon to be published as a book – ‘Spomenik Monument Database’ (pre-order on Amazon). Notes Spomenik database on … Continue reading Pokretači #31 Donald Niebyl – Spomenik Database / Illinois, USA
Belgrade, I love you
Chaotic infrastructure, constant clash of competing views and centuries of destruction and rebirth – what’s there not to like?
Continue reading Belgrade, I love you
Zrenjanin: New Hipster Paradise?
A multi-ethnic cultural hub, Zrenjanin is worth a visit for its architectural heritage
alone. Just don’t drink the water. Continue reading Zrenjanin: New Hipster Paradise?
Zagreb: a Belgrader’s take
Despite being named as the best destination in Europe by travel guide publisher Lonely Planet in 2017, Zagreb was the target of a scathing and, at points, hilarious review in the German weekly news magazine Der Spiegel last July. The review not only claimed that Zagreb is the most boring capital in Europe, but also said that its highway to Croatia’s famed Adriatic coast was the best thing … Continue reading Zagreb: a Belgrader’s take
Hidden Belgrade (29): Voždovac’s Surrealist Church
From the outside the Church of St Constantine and St Helen in the suburb of Voždovac looks like a slightly more elegant standard-issue Serbian Orthodox church, with a demure grey façade and a prominent bell-tower. The current structure, an update of the church built in early 20th Century and damaged in WWII was designed by Dragomir Tadić, a renowned Serbian church architect of the late … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (29): Voždovac’s Surrealist Church