Why are Serbians not outdoorsy?

As we were climbing around the ruins of Machu Picchu, feathery clouds clung to peaks covered with thick emerald forest. Rain, which pounded from the morning, stopped and allowed sunlight to shyly caress the sheer black cliffs above the foaming river. Around us, hundreds of tourists were jostling with selfie sticks to capture these magical scenes. My chain-smoking Belgrade-born-and-bred mother slowly moved uphill, panting. Once … Continue reading Why are Serbians not outdoorsy?

Srdjan GarcevicMarch 10, 20183 Comments

Hidden Belgrade, The Belgradist

Hidden Belgrade (25): Belgrade’s lost public baths

Despite the city’s long periods under Roman and Ottoman rule, Belgrade currently does not have a single open public bath probably for the first time in the past 19th centuries. Although neither of them were opulent marble-clad pleasure palaces that can still be enjoyed in Budapest or Istanbul, they would certainly come in handy as atmospheric places to warm up in long winter months and … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (25): Belgrade’s lost public baths

Srdjan GarcevicFebruary 22, 2018February 22, 20181 Comment

Central America (2018), Travel

The Nutshell Guide to Costa Rica and Panama

Costa Rica and Panama are both wonderful in very different ways. Costa Rica’s lush nature, as well as Ticos’ relaxed attitude create an overall sense of contentment and good life (Pura vida!), for which the country is famous. Nature-lovers and adrenaline junkies will love the opportunity to see all sorts of animals, white-water-raft, zip line and hike. Despite Panama City being the most cosmopolitan … Continue reading The Nutshell Guide to Costa Rica and Panama

Srdjan GarcevicFebruary 16, 2018February 16, 20181 Comment

Balkans, Serbiana/Srpska posla, Travel

Sarma, Testicles and Kid-roasts: Rural Serbia’s Real Foodies

The global foodie trend made urbanites in Serbia more conscious about their consumption, and even inspired some of them to try their hand at making healthier, or at least, tastier food. In Belgrade, there are now numerous events devoted to producers of anything from Serbian truffles to Serbian tabasco. Although there are some misfires, Belgrade’s Cheese festival, Night Market and Wine Jam constantly deliver a … Continue reading Sarma, Testicles and Kid-roasts: Rural Serbia’s Real Foodies

Srdjan GarcevicFebruary 15, 2018February 15, 20182 Comments

Central America (2018), Travel

The Nutshell Guide to Nicaragua: Leon to San Juan Del Sur

Nicargua is a fantastic country to visit, especially if you are looking to escape the winter in the Northern Hemisphere: it has wonderful colonial towns, great beaches and wonderful landscapes, from active volcanoes to Central America’s largest lake. We did a short, 10-day version of the “Gringo trail” through Nicaragua, sticking to the Pacific coast from Leon to San Juan Del Sur. As we … Continue reading The Nutshell Guide to Nicaragua: Leon to San Juan Del Sur

Srdjan GarcevicFebruary 12, 2018February 12, 2018Leave a comment

Central America (2018), Travel

Bocas del Toro, Panama

After a day of intense rain in Bocas del Toro, normally a picture-perfect spot in the Caribbean, K and I bagged a reservation in a hostel that Lonely Planet insisted you should “beg, borrow or steal” to get.We moved from a small hostel dive-shop in the main city of the archipelago. Although the weather did not serve us well, Bocas town, a charming mix of … Continue reading Bocas del Toro, Panama

Srdjan GarcevicFebruary 2, 2018February 2, 20181 Comment

Central America (2018), Travel

Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Our move from Nicaragua to Costa Rica was a matter of much trepidation. Our phones were constantly warning us of the bad weather over the whole country, that we even considred changing our plans and going to Honduras or El Salvador, or even cutting our trip short. Nevertheless we decided to press on, ignored the Weather Channel and as soon as we crossed the very … Continue reading Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

Srdjan GarcevicJanuary 31, 2018Leave a comment

Central America (2018), Travel

Granada, Nicaragua

“I hate to say it, but I think you will really regret not going to the volcano.” K. seemed genuinely concrened, as if the fate of my soul was in question. I looked at the looped video showing the mesmerising infernal depths of Massaya on the hostel’s TV. For a moment I felt sinful for even doubting the majesty of the night tour of a … Continue reading Granada, Nicaragua

Srdjan GarcevicJanuary 22, 2018January 22, 20181 Comment

Central America (2018), Travel

Leon/Las Penitas, Nicaragua

This is my attempt at writing a travelogue from my current trip around Central America – hopefully it continues regularly, but no guarantees. I’ll do a few posts with just the ususa where to go what to do stuff later “Manny, we will suck your dick for a beer!” This cry of desperation came from one of the Canadian Bros on our truck, as it … Continue reading Leon/Las Penitas, Nicaragua

Srdjan GarcevicJanuary 17, 20181 Comment

The Belgradist

Christmas in Serbia: A Beginner’s Guide

Probably the most confusing thing about Serbia to foreigners —after the fact that it is not Siberia— is that Christmas is celebrated on 7 January. Technically, however, it is not. It is celebrated on 25 December according to the Julian calendar, which is still in use by the Serbian Orthodox Church. However, this calendar is 13 days out of sync with the more commonly used … Continue reading Christmas in Serbia: A Beginner’s Guide

Srdjan GarcevicDecember 24, 2017Leave a comment

Pokretači, The Nutshell Media, Travel

Pokretači 1.12 Biciklom od Beograda do Manhajma – Ana Novaković i Aleksandra Cvetković

Zamišljate da ostavite sve i samo odete na dugu avanturu? Posle pobede na konkursu Ciklomotive, Ana (koju znate iz prve epizode) i Aleksandra su 21 dan vozile bicikl od Beograda do Manhajma u Nemačkoj. Pričali smo o pripremama, peripetijama, i, naravno, promenama koje su se desile tokom ove avanture. Ana i Aleksandra su takođe podelile i svoju top listu sa puta (veoma kosrisno ako idete … Continue reading Pokretači 1.12 Biciklom od Beograda do Manhajma – Ana Novaković i Aleksandra Cvetković

Srdjan GarcevicDecember 4, 20175 Comments

Hidden Belgrade, The Belgradist, Uncategorized

Hidden Belgrade (21): The rise and fall of the Friendship Park

There are a few testaments of Socialist Yugoslavia’s global ambitions dotted around Belgrade, from the obelisk by Branko’s bridge commemorating the first meeting of the Non-Aligned movement in 1961, to Sava Centar, built to host conferences of OSCE and Non-Aligned Movement in 1977 and 1979, respectively. However, the most striking and poetic memorial to rise and disastrous fall of Yugoslavia’s international clout is the Friendship … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (21): The rise and fall of the Friendship Park

Srdjan GarcevicNovember 3, 2017November 3, 20171 Comment

Balkans, Travel

Tirana Transformed

My first impressions of Tirana in 2008, were that the city did not look like anything I’ve ever seen before. Outside of the planned central core, buildings, new and old, were shooting up randomly, making the drive around the outskirts a vertiginous experience. The whole city was marked by almost five decades of Enver Hoxha’s Stalinist isolationism and its chaotic aftermath. There were bunkers, grand … Continue reading Tirana Transformed

Srdjan GarcevicNovember 2, 2017November 2, 20171 Comment

Life, Photography, Travel, Uncategorized

Tombstone tourism, from Arlington to Zagreb

Cemeteries, along with large parks and markets, always top my list of sights to see in any city I visit. Unlike shops and cafes, which are increasingly the same all over the world, cemeteries remain shielded from changes and give us a glimpse into the private workings of the city. Even in the busiest places, they are quiet and dignified, rarely overrun by tourists. They … Continue reading Tombstone tourism, from Arlington to Zagreb

Srdjan GarcevicOctober 31, 2017October 31, 20173 Comments

Balkans, Photography

Bosnia’s dramatic north: Jajce, the Vrbas River Canyon and Banja Luka

For most people, tourism in Bosnia and Herzegovina is synonymous with visiting Sarajevo and Mostar, and perhaps Trebinje, Medjugorje and the Sutjeska national park. This, however is unfair to the rest of this stunning country, which does not only offer a lot of wonderful unspoilt nature throughout, but also ancient fortresses, churches and mosques, which have persevered through its turbulent past. Last week I went on a … Continue reading Bosnia’s dramatic north: Jajce, the Vrbas River Canyon and Banja Luka

Srdjan GarcevicOctober 19, 2017October 19, 2017Leave a comment

Travel

Copenhagen: Cool Climate

Unlike, Berlin or Barcelona, Copenhagen takes its cool in the stride. Whether it is cutting edge architecture, or the wonderful belle epoque Tivoli, nothing is too showy and all of it simply blends with the rest of this stunningly pretty city. If you can, definitely try to be there for Christmas markets to see it all lit up and enjoy the copious glogg and pastries. … Continue reading Copenhagen: Cool Climate

Srdjan GarcevicSeptember 27, 2017September 28, 2017Leave a comment

Balkans, Photography, Travel

The Prokletije holiday

Sharp peaks, bears and traditional singing. What’s not to like? Continue reading The Prokletije holiday

Srdjan GarcevicSeptember 19, 2017September 22, 20172 Comments

Hidden Belgrade, The Belgradist

Hidden Belgrade (13): Knez Mihailova’s unlucky merchants

Ever since the Roman times, the road that is now Knez Mihailova street used to be the main commercial area of Belgrade. Starting from the old castrum (whose walls are buried below the new Rajićeva shopping mall and the Belgrade Public Library), the street, which was paved with stone and had sewerage, went past all the key Roman institutions , such as the forum located … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (13): Knez Mihailova’s unlucky merchants

Srdjan GarcevicSeptember 2, 2017September 13, 20174 Comments

Hidden Belgrade, The Belgradist

Hidden Belgrade (12): Konjarnik: Buddhism, Brutalism and rap

As you approach Belgrade by highway from the East, you will pass a hill from which you will be able to see the whole city in front of you, but the view will be dominated by three massive stepped concrete buildings. Officially called Rudo, after a city in Bosnia, the complex is known as the Eastern Gate, in parrallel with another brutalist masterpiece that is … Continue reading Hidden Belgrade (12): Konjarnik: Buddhism, Brutalism and rap

Srdjan GarcevicAugust 27, 2017September 6, 20171 Comment

Balkans, Photography, Travel

Bač: fortress in the plains

Bač’s medieval heritage juts out awkwardly from the tree lined streets of this quiet town. The remaining fortress tower overlooks one story homes where elderly ladies snooping on visitors, probably with the same passion of medieval guards. A wonderful gothic gate protects an unremarkable concrete bridge over Mostonga. Honey-coloured tower of the monastery, dating from the crusades, pierces the endless Pannonian sky. This quiet town … Continue reading Bač: fortress in the plains

Srdjan GarcevicAugust 25, 2017August 25, 2017Leave a comment

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